VISITING THE AZORES IN THE OFF SEASON: THE GOOD & THE BAD

DATE: 15 JANUARY 2022 #travel guide

I spnt 3 weeks in the Azores Islands in December. Good idea? Depends on what you’re looking for. In this photo journal, I describe my Sao Miguel Island adventure when it rained every day for three weeks straight. You'll also find a comprehensive travel guide to visiting Sao Miguel in the Azores in winter, whether you’re a surfer or an outdoor enthusiast: what to pack, how to get there, and the best things to do when the sun’s nowhere to be seen.

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Week 1: The Cabin in the Woods

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It's been raining for the past three days. But I'm not bored. Outside, birds are chirping away, and the trees are rustling, their leaves grooving along with the wind.

Inside, the fire creaks and warms the house. I’m staying in a wooden cabin with a tiny kitchen, like in a van. Two rooms, a mezzanine, and a small, cosy living room with a couch and comfy floor pillows. The terrace is covered, so you can sit outside even when it rains.

This cabin in the woods is the perfect place to practice mental rituals, do yoga, eat soup and drink tea. Portuguese cheese and butter with warm bread make an ideal snack by the fire. The wifi is slow. There's a limited amount of warm water: we learn to consume responsibly - just enough is already more than enough.

Time is endless. Sleep is sound. Light is dim, there is no one around.

Looking at trees - their colour, texture and pattern - helps me focus. A place of quiet serenity. Until my thoughts start to flood my mind. They're loud. I step outside and tune my senses with my surroundings: I hear, see, smell and feel. This simple act of being aware of everything around me is enough to empty my mind. My thoughts disappear.

Now let's jump to three days later. The rain hasn't stopped. The house is getting cold. My legs shriek, they want to move, run, explode. My book doesn't satisfy me anymore. Give me sun! Air! Waves! People!

Truth is, it's easy to get bored in a house in the middle of the woods if the weather is terrible. So what do you do when it rains for three weeks in winter in the Azores Islands? Run away. Come back later. Postpone your booking. The sea is so much better.

“Tall trees sway from side to side. A gentle murmur, branches creak and fall softly to the ground. Fir bark is covered in mushy fluorescent green moss. The floor is moist and the sky is frothy. A storm is on the way. And I feel wonderfully alone and safe in this modern cabin in the woods. A cosy winter forest getaway, in the middle of Sao Miguel in the Azores Islands.”

Week 2: Empty Peaks and Perfect Waves

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So, as advised, I went to the seaside.

Ah, fresh air mixed with droplets of saltwater. I arrived in Sao Roque, only to discover a furious, smoky ocean, a battlefield of choppy waves and foam.

The church is the perfect lookout spot to watch the waves, and some brave surfers were getting wiped out one by one.

I stayed a few days, but the ocean just grew angrier. So I crossed the island to the other side to check out other surf spots on Sao Miguel Island: Santa Barbara and Monteverde.

Week 3: Lakes and Alpine Jungles

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It's been three weeks, and it's still raining (don't believe Google. It can rain a lot in December in the Azores. To be precise, out of my twenty-one-day stay, it rained eighteen days. But hey, a storm was also passing by the Atlantic, so, you know, you might get lucky, and I might be saying nonsense).

When it rains in Sao Miguel, the best thing to do is to hike through the island's forests. Azorean forests are a peculiar mix of Peruvian jungles and Alpine trees. You're strolling through the woods in Switzerland, and suddenly, you teleport to Machu Picchu. The island’s central location in the Atlantic might explain this fascinating merge of landscapes. I call them the Azorean Alpine Jungles.

Hiking through the Azorean Alpine Jungles is a peculiar exprience. You'll pass by steaming mountains and hot springs that smell like rotten eggs, as the entire island sits on three active volcanos. Despite the foul smell, it’s a visual spectacle. You’ll find misty fluorescent green lakes and mystical waterfalls. You'll feel the rain on your skin, but everything’s so moist that it won’t matter.

Lagoa do Fogo

I hiked from Furnas to Lagoa do Fogo - that glorious lake all travel guides tell you to go to. The lake didn't look like the pictures on Google. In fact, Lagoa do Fogo was nowhere to be seen at first, as a dense cloud was hovering over the bottom of the valley. Leave early, and you might get luckier than me.

Lagoa das Furnas

Mud, fluorescent green grass, soft cows, houses with tints of the Basque Country, and no one on the trails. The hike to Lagoa das Furnas was more satisfying, as the sky cleared for a sweet minute before turning back into monotonous hues of grey.

So, should you visit Sao Miguel Island in winter?

I'd say yes if you're into big waves and moist forests. But don't stay three weeks like I did. If a storm hits the Atlantic while you're there, you'll spend most of your days inside. A shame, considering all the beautiful outdoor activities you can do on the island. The locals told me that Autumn and Spring were the best times to visit the Azores. Always trust the locals.

Ultimately, I’m the only one to blame. I was looking for a cheap winter surf trip, and told myself hey, why not the Azores. Silly me. I don’t like big waves.

How to get to Sao Miguel Island

Sao Miguel Island is accessible by air, with direct flights from several European cities. The João Paulo II Airport in Ponta Delgada is the main gateway to the island.

Check skyscanner for the best deals to Ponta Delgada Airport.

Once you arrive, you can rent a car to explore at your own pace. Try not to rely on public transportation to reach different parts of the island - buses are rare in winter.

💡 Book a car before you reach the airport, you’ll find cheaper deals online.

Are there accommodations available on the island during the winter season?

Sao Miguel Island offers a range of accommodations to suit different preferences and budgets, even during the winter season. You can choose from charming guesthouses, hostels, cozy cottages, boutique hotels or eco-friendly lodges.

What’s the weather like in the Azores in winter?

Winter on Sao Miguel Island is relatively mild, with average temperatures ranging from 13°C (55°F) to 17°C (63°F). While you can expect rainfall and cooler temperatures, the island's microclimates can create diverse weather conditions throughout the day. Be prepared for loads of rain and pack layers to adjust to the changing weather.

What local cuisine and traditional dishes should I try during my winter visit to Sao Miguel Island?

1. Cozido das Furnas: This is a traditional Azorean stew cooked underground using volcanic heat. Various meats, such as beef, chicken, and pork, along with an assortment of vegetables, are slow-cooked in a large pot buried in the hot ground.
   
   
2. Lapas Grelhadas: Lapas are limpets, a type of shellfish found in the Azores. Grilled lapas are a popular and delicious appetizer or snack. They’re typically seasoned with garlic, butter, and lemon juice, giving them a rich and tangy flavor.
   
   
3. Caldo de Peixe: This fish soup is a comforting and hearty dish perfect for winter. It’s made with a variety of local fish, vegetables, and spices. Enjoy it with a side of freshly baked bread for a complete meal.
   
   
4. Queijadas da Vila: These traditional Azorean pastries are a sweet treat made with eggs, sugar and flour. These small, round cakes have a creamy and slightly caramelised filling.
   
   
5. Alcatra: Alcatra is a traditional beef dish that is slow-cooked in a clay pot. The meat is marinated in a flavourful mixture of spices and red wine. It’s often served with roasted potatoes and veggies.
   
   
6. Bolo Lêvedo: I couldn’t get enough of this bread! Bolo Lêvedo is a soft and fluffy bread with a slightly sweet taste. It’s usually served warm and spread with butter or local jams. Enjoy it as a breakfast treat or an afternoon snack.
   
   
7. Ananás dos Açores: Sao Miguel Island is famous for its pineapple cultivation. Try the locally grown pineapples, known as Ananás dos Açores, for a burst of tropical flavor.

What to do on Sao Miguel Island in winter?

If you’re into surfing:

Check this handy guide from Santa Barbara Surf School. If the swell is hitting hard the island from the North, you’ll find sheltered spots in the South, and the other way around. Check apps like Windy to see where the swell is coming from and access the island’s available webcams.



If you’re into chilling in sulfur-stinking hot tubs:

One of the popular tourist attractions on Sao Miguel Island is the Terra Nostra hot springs located in Furnas. But my personal experience left me somewhat dissatisfied. There were too many people, and the entire thing looked a bit superficial.

Look at this picture of my sister for example:



Wow, right! A luxurious waterfall with no one around. Pocahontas in the middle of the jungle. In a swimming suit, in December. The dream.

Truth is, I had to wait in line to take the picture. And behind me were flocks of people with selfie sticks. So although it looks like paradise, it’s just a façade. But oh well, what a shot.

Read on to find less touristy alternatives.


If you’re into hiking:

As mentioned above, one of the best things to do on Sao Miguel Island when it's raining is hiking through forests and waterfalls, as you'll be mostly protected from the rain and will get wet anyways.

There are plenty of really good travel guides already online - I recommend you check earthosea and Fullsuitcase.com to build your own itinerary. This map also give a useful snapshot of all the available hikes. You’ll also find some hidden gems below.

What are some lesser-known hidden gems on Sao Miguel Island that are worth visiting in winter?

Salto do Prego

Located in Faial da Terra, this waterfall is tucked away in a lush valley. A hike through the stunning countryside will lead you to this hidden gem, where you can enjoy the tranquility and beauty of the cascading waterfall.




Ponta da Madrugada

Ponta da Madrugada is a viewpoint on the easternmost tip of the island. Take in panoramic views of the rugged coastline, rolling hills, and the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean.

A word of caution here: that’s only if you’re lucky. We got a sunset of grey clouds, humid rain, slapping wind gusts and crying cows. But trust me, it was still worth it. As we strolled amidst the radiant green moss, it felt as if we had stepped into a mesmerising realm, straight out of a scene from Harry Potter.



Miradouro da Boca do Inferno

From this viewpoint, you can contemplate the volcanic coastline and the crashing waves below. With its dramatic cliffs and rugged landscape, it's a perfect spot for photographers and nature enthusiasts.

Furnas Lake

While Furnas is known for its hot springs, the lake itself is often overlooked. Take a leisurely stroll around the tranquil lake, surrounded by lush vegetation and stunning vistas. It’s the perfect way to spend a rainy day as you’ll be mostly protected by the trees.

Spot the old church: it looks like a haunted boat, eaten away by the vegetation.


Mosteiros

This picturesque coastal village on the western coast of the island offers surprising rock formations, natural pools and waves on a good day.


Pico do Ferro Viewpoint

Located in the town of Furnas, this viewpoint gives a panoramic view of the Furnas Valley. On a clear day, you can even see the Lagoa das Furnas shimmering in the distance.

Can I take the ferry from São Miguel to visit other islands?

There is no ferry service to and from São Miguel.

The Azores are a group of nine islands, each with their own treasures. You might think they’re well connected, but the eastern island group (São Miguel and Santa Maria) is a bit of an outcast, despite boasting the biggest airport, Ponta Delgada. The travel distance between each island by ferry can also vary widely, going from 35-minute to 6-hour journeys.

You’ll have to take a flight to visit other islands from São Miguel. And keep in mind that most ferry routes don’t operate in winter (they stop in December) because of rough seas! Check the local ferry line, Atlantico-line, for updated information to plan your route.

Because of the storm, I couldn’t visit other islands as flight connections were temporarily closed. So if you want to hop from one island to the other in the Azores, I’d advise to plan your visit during the more stable seasons of summer, spring, or autumn. Winter might bring disappointment with potential disruptions and limited travel options.

What to pack for a surf trip in the Azores Islands in winter?

Pack light, and pack waterproof.

☒ windproof raincoat
☒ waterproof 10L backpack for hikes, or just cover it in a plastic bag
☒ trail sneakers (mine weren’t waterproof and I didn’t mind, but don’t forget to put them in a dry spot at night if you’re hiking the next day)
☒ 1 fleece
☒ 1 cosy sweater for evenings and after-surf chilling
☒ 1 3/2 wetsuit
☒ pyjama if you're sleeping in a hostel
☒ microfiber towel
☒ flip flops
☒ wax, epoxy kit, and all of your surf accessories - I didn't find any surf shops that were open in December
☒ sweatpants or cosy pants (remember: you'll spend lots of time inside if the weather's bad)
☒ sports leggings for hikes
☒ 1 pair of comfy jeans or pants
☒ T-shirts
☒ travel essentials (sunscreen, point-and-shoot camera, tea tree oil - the only disinfectant you need - passport, driving license...you know the drill)
☒ hat & sunglasses