HUANCHACO, PERU: A GUIDE TO THIS FUNKY LIL’ SURF TOWN

April 10, at sunset

The waves seemed smaller that day. We managed to go through the foam and the current and arrived far away from the beach, so far that people looked like tiny dark spots on the sand. I sat on my board a bit further on the right of the lineup to admire the spectacle. Waves were gently curling over their crests before exploding into a cloud of sprinkling foam. The sounds of my surroundings were incredibly satisfying, crackling, sizzling bubbles and tinkling drops of water.

The sun was setting. A crimson haze enveloped the town and the desert, like a veil of heat and moisture. The sun's last rays were wrapping the surfers' faces with beautiful rusty light, and they were all watching their day end with this exquisite view.

It was poetry in motion.

Photos : Judith (@judithodm)

“The water was cold, and my wetsuit had holes in it; it was strange to feel cold while looking at this desert landscape”

I was in awe but also afraid. I wondered if I should head back because of the size of the waves. But the scenery was so mesmerizing that I wanted to stay and take it all in. The water was cold, and my wetsuit had holes in it; it was strange to feel cold while looking at this desert landscape.

I started breathing deeply and then entered into a calm state of consciousness where my mind was fully present at that very moment. Watching, feeling and hearing everything around me were the only thing that mattered.

Then the wave arrived. The wave. It was not as big as the others of the lineup, but still more impressive than any wave I had ever tried before.

Suddenly, the cold hit me. A bitter shiver took over my body and signalled me it was time to head back. My arms were stiff, and my lips were shivering. The wave was coming right towards me. I was in the perfect position to take it. I was hesitating: should I try and risk it, should I not?

I took it. Popped up, strong on my legs, stayed low, very low on my board, went left. Going down the face of the wave, I discovered this new amazing speed - an unfamiliar pace. The adrenaline was stronger than ever before. The wave was long, and I was brushing its shoulder with my fingers. I could see its crest curl over my head, going fast. Then an enormous mass of foam swallowed me in.

Oh, how happy I was when I came out of the water! I laughed with joy! My heart was beating fast, each pulse was a manifestation of my delight and pride.

That wave was one of the happiest moments of my trip. Thinking about it still makes me smile.

A note on facing your fear

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My wise mom once told me, why worry about things that haven't happened yet?

I try to live by this sentence. Sometimes, imposter syndrome kicks in. We tell ourselves we're not good enough. We convince ourselves we can't do it. Because we worry about what would happen if we did.

What if I fail? What if people mock me?

When we stop worrying about the unknown, we shape our own path. When we tell ourselves we can do something, we take one step closer to achieving what matters to us.

Voilà, hope that helps.

Shot by @judithodm

TRAVEL GUIDE

SURFING HUANCHACO IN WINTER

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What's the surf like in Huanchaco?

Huanchaco Beach has consistent waves year-round. It's a rocky beach break, and the current can get really strong - to the point where after taking a wave, you need to get out of the water and walk back to reach the lineup. But on a good day, the waves are worth the hassle.

You'll find lefts and rights, but mostly lefts. The waves can get massive, but they are usually mellow and not tubular. It's a great place to test your fear levels and catch bigger waves without getting utterly destroyed. You can still get the usual washing machine tumble, but that's part of the sport.


Waves in Huanchaco on a smaller day. Shot by @judithodm

Where to surf in Huanchaco? An overview of Huanchaco surf spots

Huanchaco has two main surf spots: one at the left of the pier (el Muelle de Huanchaco), with different peaks breaking across the beach. They usually break pretty far out: the paddle is long and strenuous to get to the lineup, and the farthest waves are also the biggest.

If you prefer smaller waves, stay to the right of the pier. But be cautious of the current as it can quickly sweep you towards a hazardous area where waves crash onto large rocks. You definitely don't want to find yourself stuck in that zone - I experienced this and escaping without hitting the rocks took all my energy and strength. Stay alert and stay safe!

If you're a beginner, you'll find sheltered waves (well, foam) to practice your first pop-ups near the shore.

🐣 Tip: how to use the current to your advantage: if you find yourself caught in a rip current and want to get back on shore, don't fight it. Paddle parallel to the beach until you're out of the stream, then paddle towards the shore. Keep in mind it can take a while to find this way out.

Also don’t miss the short trip to the nearby longest left in the world, Chicama.

When to surf in Huanchaco?

The winter season (May to October) brings the best waves with consistent swells. I went in April, and the first few days were huge (3-4 meters/10-13 feet)!

Although the water was cold, the sun was always out. You'll need light sweaters and pants to feel comfy in the evenings, but T-shirts will do during the day.

Is the water cold in Huanchaco?

Yep… Don't expect warm water like in Ecuador. As soon as you cross the border, you're entering cold water territory from Peru to Chile. You need to wear a 3/2 wetsuit - no more surfing in swimming suits! But if you're from France like me, you'll still find the water relatively warm, averaging 18° (67 F) in April.

Surfing in cold water while overlooking vast landscapes of sand dunes was epic: I felt like a Persian princess, hopping from my camel to my board to ride mystical waves in the Peruvian Sahara.

Do I need reef booties to surf in Huanchaco?

The rocks are pretty sharp. I cut my foot open while getting pounded by a wave.

When entering the water, take care not to slip. I didn't wear booties because I always prefer to avoid them whenever possible, but I did get cold quickly and hurt my foot, so you know… I probably would have been better off with booties, cheh.

Can I rent surfboards in Huanchaco?

There are plenty of shops where you can rent surfboards for a decent price. I was surprised by the quality of the rentals at some of the shops and the availability of choice. My board was in good condition and felt terrific. You'll also find used boards for sale in surf shops and hostels, and you can get a brand-new board shaped by a local shaper for about $300.

If you need pro surfing equipment, head to Lima, where you'll find everything you need (but don't expect lower prices than in Europe or the US).

The board I rented in Huanchaco

Is Huanchaco a beginner surf spot?

Huanchaco is a surf spot suitable for all levels, depending on the break. If you're a beginner, stay in the beginner zone until you feel ready to step up.

Plenty of surf schools offer classes for about 50 soles a day ($13), so it's a great place to learn how to surf without breaking the bank.

Where to sleep in Huanchaco on a budget?

I stayed in Mandala Youth Hostel. While the dorms weren't ideal due to limited headspace between the roof and top bunk bed, the rooftop terrace made up for it with its sunset ocean views and cozy hammocks. It's the perfect spot to watch the waves in the morning. The hostel is just a few minutes' walk from the beach and has an artsy bar that comes to life at night with live music from local bands.


The Mandala Youth Hostel in Huanchaco

Where to eat in Huanchaco Peru

There are many restaurants in the town and the food I tried was delicious. Although a local speciality, the ceviche was expensive and wasn’t as good asa the ceviches in Lima.

What to do in Huanchaco other than surfing?

I loved the town's laid-back and quirky surf vibe. It was a mix of cultures: people’s beautiful and distinct features introduced the sacred Andean mountains and the Quechua traditions. At the same time, a hint of Hawaii breathed through the fishermen paddling out in their pirogues to catch fish and surf the waves back to shore.

These traditional boats, which could be considered one of the earliest and oldest forms of surfboards, are known as the Caballito de Totora.
The caballito de totora is a small boat crafted from reeds and has been used for over 3000 years, as evidenced by archaeological discoveries. It's incredible to think that even today, Huanchaco's fishermen still use them daily. Each morning at around 7AM, the fishermen gracefully surf the waves back to the shore with their catch from the webs cast out at sea. This impressive tradition is highly valued by the locals of Huanchaco and Peru. Try to wake up early one day to watch them drift off to sea.

The town also has a lot to offer. Walk around the narrow streets, and you'll find plenty of artisanal shops that sell all sorts of traditional goods and artefacts. People are friendly and welcoming, making you feel like home. Take a stroll in the local food market, chill in the sun at one of the many cafés, indulge in a delicious ceviche, watch the surfers at sunset, listen to live music at night and make new friends. I stayed two weeks in Huanchaco but could have easily stayed more.

How to get to Huanchaco from Ecuador?

You'll first need to get to Trujillo, which is about 30 minutes away from Huanchaco. Trujillo is well connected to most cities in Peru, and it's also your second stop if you're crossing the border from Ecuador. Once in Trujillo, head to Ovalo Grau station where you can take a colectivo (a small bus) to Huanchaco.

I crossed the border by bus from Vilcabamba in Ecuador. It was a long journey: 30 hours in uncomfortable buses, 4 bus changes, and a border crossing at 4 AM in a malaria-infested region where giant mosquitos would attack us inside the bus!

There's easier ways to do it, but also much more expensive. The whole crossing was an adventure in itself, so I don't regret it!

How to get to Huanchaco from Lima?

It's a 10-hour direct bus to or from Lima. This one was spacious and comfy.

Next stop?

Head to Chicama to surf the world's longest left, a short one-hour drive from Huanchaco.

Lima: Escape to the capital and discover a unique city where businessmen change into wetsuits after work to surf! Take a stroll through the hipster neighbourhood for a Brooklyn-meets-the-Andes vibe, and indulge in the mouthwatering food scene.

Huaraz: Looking for thrilling mountain adventures like the 4-Day Huayhuash trek, one of the most beautiful treks in the world? Take a bus to Huaraz and get ready for unforgettable hikes and treks across stunning peaks.

Ecuador: Sick of cold water? Head to Ecuador and explore Mompiche, a laid-back fisherman's town with gentle waves.

Trujillo? I don't recommend it, especially if you've been to Cuenca in Ecuador, or are heading to Cuzco.

I hope you’ll have loads of fun in this funky lil’ surf town. If you need help planning for your trip, explore the solo backpacking handbook, where you’ll find:

📖 a snazzy ebook detailing how to prep a long-term solo backpacking trip in 20 steps
🗺️ a free backpacking trip planner to travel with peace of mind (including useful tools like a travel budget worksheet and a packing list)
🧰 60+ free trip planning resources for solo travellers
🌐 an unusual South America 6-month trip itinerary detailing 40 stops from Costa Rica to Brazil
And more!