I spent a month in the Canary Islands exploring off-the-beaten-path surf spots and road-tripping with friends. We slept in a tent amidst sandy fields of purple volcanoes, surfed at dawn and took in the peace of nature. Here’s some excerpts from my journal + tips to prep your next surf road trip adventure in Fuerteventura.![Fuerteventura road trip]()
I spent a month in the Canary Islands exploring off-the-beaten-path surf spots and road tripping with friends. We slept in a tent amid sandy fields of purple volcanoes, surfed at dawn and took in the peace of nature. Here’s some excerpts from my journal + some tips to help you prep for your next surf bivouac adventure.
ROAD TRIPPIN’ IN THE CANARY ISLANDS
DATE: 05 OCTOBER 2022 #travel
I spent a month in the Canary Islands exploring off-the-beaten-path surf spots and road tripping with friends. We slept in a tent amid sandy fields of purple volcanoes, surfed at dawn and took in the peace of nature. Here’s some excerpts from my journal + some tips to help you prep for your next surf bivouac adventure.
TRAVEL LOG
Between day 4 and 5
We peeked our heads outside our tiny tent. The sun casually rose behind Isla de Lobos, and flamed the landscape with golden tones. We heated some water, drank coffee, put on our wetsuits and went into the sea. Empty peaks in crystal water, a gentle reef brushing our feet. Glassy right-handers curling over their crests and breaking into misty clouds of foam. Satisfaction in its purest form.
Day 15
We walked two hours with our boards, only to find two spots: one with a virtually impossible-to-surf shore break, and another with 3-meter tubes smashing onto a sharp volcanic reef. We sat down, watched in awe these brutal, imperial lines of perfect waves with no one on them, and told ourselves: “if only we were Kai Lenny.” We turned around and walked back, our boards heavy on our shoulders. “In three years, we’ll come back and surf that wave.” Will we though?
Day 30
It was dawn. We were four surfers in the water, and I could feel the tension in the air. The waves were big that day. When we arrived, we all wondered if we should go in. But it was the very last surf session of our trip. We had to go in.
I was feeling calm and stiff at the same time. I was peeing a lot, probably because of the fear. Getting to the lineup was easy enough. A few duck-dives. Glassy water. Beautiful light. A sacred silence. But oh, was I not prepared for the force of the sets that were about to come.
Sets of waves were getting bigger and heavier. An enormous wall appeared at lightning speed. Dusky blue, with a menacing, frightening umbra. I was in the worst possible spot. The current was bringing me right towards the impact zone - also known as no man’s land. The wall had no escape, and the closeout was imminent.
Fear suddenly flooded my mind. I bailed my board and dived straight into the water. Probably not at the right moment. The incommensurable force of the wave struck me. It crushed me to the ocean floor, took me right back up into a swirl, my head abruptly rose out of the top of the wave’s crest, and I swallowed a second of fresh air before getting pulverised back below. My leash strangled my thigh and my board hit my face underwater, and when I finally came back up, another wall took me over.
I let go. Closed my eyes. Waited it out.
“Stay calm.”
Oh no. Can’t anymore. Opened my eyes. Where's the sky? Need some air. This is hell. Shh. Calm down. Calm down. Closed my eyes. Let it go.
Eventually, it stopped. I felt dizzy, and my vision was blurry, perhaps because of the fear? Or the hit, or the spins underwater? I went out, reached the beach with a pounding heart. Then I looked back.
They were many closeouts but some nice, albeit heavy waves with large rideable faces. I saw my friend take a double-overhead wave, probably the best one of his life. I wanted to go back in but knew I didn't have the guts to face another building of water crashing on my frail body. My only thought was: I need to get better and conquer the fear. You can surf waves like this*. But you got to face the fear.
*Hi 👋 this is me re-reading this article two years later. Nope, I’ll probably never be able to surf waves like this. It’s a mindset thing. You either have it or you don’t...
“Fear suddenly flooded my mind. I bailed my board and dived straight into the water. Probably not at the right moment. The incommensurable force of the wave struck me. It crushed me to the ocean floor, took me right back up into a swirl, my head abruptly rose out of the top of the wave’s crest, and I swallowed a second of fresh air before getting pulverised back below.”
Travel tips for your next Fuerteventura surf road trip
Renting a car: We had a little trouble renting a car as we travelled during Covid. Rental companies had sold most of their fleet to survive, so the prices for the remaining cars were over the roof. We ended up renting a car from a local woman we found on Facebook. She lent us a worn-out Fiat Panda for 20€/day. Although we did run into some problems, it did the job.
You'll probably find better and cheaper options now that conditions are back to normal. There are plenty of rental companies across the island.
For a more luxurious experience, rent a van, you won’t regret it!
Camping on the island: Camping in Fuerteventura is forbidden on most beaches. Arrive late and leave early. Respect your surroundings, leave no trace, don’t put loud music, don’t spit your toothpaste on the ground...you know the drill. Try to travel during the off-season (December-June) for a better experience and to support local businesses.
We never had any issues, no one came looking for us, but we did choose spots that were hidden from the road and quite far from towns.
Surfing on the island: When surfing, respect the locals. Locals in some spots were much friendlier than in others. It always helps if you speak a few words of Spanish.
Camping spots you shouldn’t miss during your Fuerteventura road trip
The island is full of wild beaches and martian landscapes. Drive around and you’ll undoubtedly stumble onto a little piece of paradise just for yourself. I won’t reveal my favourite camping spots (you’ve got to dig a little too 😉), but here’s some ideas:
Majanicho: A sleepy fishermen’s village nestled in a protected bay. This spot has everything a surfer needs: beautiful waves breaking over a deep reef, small crowds, crystal blue water. You can camp a bit further up the beach if travelling during the off-season. You’ll see a large field of orange sand facing volcanoes. You’ll wake up with the rising sun, and get ready for an early-morning surf session to kickstart the day before driving off to the next wave.
Playa de Garcey: That's the beach where you can spot the infamous American Star shipwreck (well, what's left of it). The SS America was a US ocean liner and cruise ship built in the 1940s, and if you have a minute, I recommend you read its peculiar story.
The trip to this remote beach is also worth the journey. You'll see jagged cliffs, dramatic canyons, mysterious caves and secluded coves facing the Atlantic Ocean. You'll find plenty of quiet spots to camp for the night. Just beware of the tides, and don't set camp too close to the water.
Packing list: what to bring on a road trip to Fuerteventura
As you prepare to hit the open road and explore Fuerteventura and its neighbouring islands, try to pack smart for a smooth and enjoyable journey. There aren’t many specialised shops to buy camping gear on the island. So to help you out, here’s a packing list for your next road trip.
☒A portable shower (10L is enough, this one from Sea to Summit was great). Hang it to your car trunk door ;)
☒A microfiber towel
☒Biodegradable soap and shampoo: I bought my soap from Les Petits Baroudeurs and my shampoo from Unbottled (and it lasted me three months!). Make sure you use them far from any water source, and dispose of grey water in a container that you can then empty at gas stations or in public toilets.
☒Portable cups and cutlery
☒Head lamp (charged)
☒Blanket / backdrop to cover the floor, eat, protect the bottom of the tent etc. (the sand is actually orange in some places and stains everything).
☒Biodegradable toilet paper (or, for lack of, trash bags to throw your toilet paper in - don’t leave it in nature).
☒A rope/string to let your wetsuit dry (note that there are not many trees in the Canary Islands, so you’ll have to get creative to dry your clothes/wetsuit).
☒Epoxy/PU repair kit for eventual dings
☒A microfiber towel
☒Biodegradable soap and shampoo: I bought my soap from Les Petits Baroudeurs and my shampoo from Unbottled (and it lasted me three months!). Make sure you use them far from any water source, and dispose of grey water in a container that you can then empty at gas stations or in public toilets.
☒Portable cups and cutlery
☒Head lamp (charged)
☒Blanket / backdrop to cover the floor, eat, protect the bottom of the tent etc. (the sand is actually orange in some places and stains everything).
☒Biodegradable toilet paper (or, for lack of, trash bags to throw your toilet paper in - don’t leave it in nature).
☒A rope/string to let your wetsuit dry (note that there are not many trees in the Canary Islands, so you’ll have to get creative to dry your clothes/wetsuit).
☒Bring whatever clothes you want, but try to pack light, and pack in layers. At night a fleece is enough. When it’s windy wrap yourself in a blanket or jacket. We went in October and it was warm during the day, pleasant at night. We also went in February and the weather was almost the same as in October.
☒Epoxy/PU repair kit for eventual dings
☒A plastic bucket to store and rinse your wetsuit/clean cutlery.
☒Don’t bring a fancy wetsuit. You’ll probably destroy it in a week, as it’s hard to rinse when you have limited water supply, and with no shade in the Canary Islands, you’ll have to dry it under the scorching sun. Expect holes, tears and damage beyond repair. Bring an old 3/2 and you’ll be fine.
☒The camping basics: You can buy tents for 25 bucks in some stores in Fuerteventura, just don’t expect it to last over a week, especially if conditions are windy. Bring a camping stove, sleeping bag, make a pillow with sweaters, no need to get fancy with the equipment here.
The only “fancy” thing I’d invest in for a surf bivouac in the Canary Islands would be a lightweight sleeping mat. You don’t want your back hurting so much that you can’t surf anymore!
☒TIGER BALM! My biggest mistake was not to bring this little wonder in a pot. When you surf four hours per day on average and combine this with sleeping in a tent on an uneven floor and driving in a tiny Fiat Panda filled with backpacks and surfboards, your shoulders and back take a beating. Tiger Balm would’ve been a pleasant nighttime luxury.
☒Loads of wax
☒I’ll let you complete with the obvious such as toiletries, surf equipment and clothing.
☒Don’t bring a fancy wetsuit. You’ll probably destroy it in a week, as it’s hard to rinse when you have limited water supply, and with no shade in the Canary Islands, you’ll have to dry it under the scorching sun. Expect holes, tears and damage beyond repair. Bring an old 3/2 and you’ll be fine.
☒The camping basics: You can buy tents for 25 bucks in some stores in Fuerteventura, just don’t expect it to last over a week, especially if conditions are windy. Bring a camping stove, sleeping bag, make a pillow with sweaters, no need to get fancy with the equipment here.
The only “fancy” thing I’d invest in for a surf bivouac in the Canary Islands would be a lightweight sleeping mat. You don’t want your back hurting so much that you can’t surf anymore!
☒TIGER BALM! My biggest mistake was not to bring this little wonder in a pot. When you surf four hours per day on average and combine this with sleeping in a tent on an uneven floor and driving in a tiny Fiat Panda filled with backpacks and surfboards, your shoulders and back take a beating. Tiger Balm would’ve been a pleasant nighttime luxury.
☒Loads of wax
☒I’ll let you complete with the obvious such as toiletries, surf equipment and clothing.
I’ll soon publish a travel guide for solo travellers in the Canary Islands, covering Fuerteventura, Lanzarote and La Graciosa islands. Subscribe to my newsletter to know when it’s out!
![Road trip Lanzarote]()
