CATCHING A GLIMPSE OF INDIA: A SOOTHING SURF & YOGA RETREAT IN VARKALA

DATE: 01 JUNE 2023 #travel guide #mind

Sometimes, a trip can be transformative and completely alter your life course. This is what happened to me on a 10-day surf and yoga retreat to Varkala, India.

Varkala is more than just a stunning surf spot or a paradise for sun-seekers. As you breathe in the invigorating curry-peppered sea breeze, you'll find that Varkala has a way of propelling change into your life.

Fair enough, maybe that was just for me. But why not try it out? Read this travel guide to see if Varkala should be your next solo trip destination, whether you're seeking a peaceful escape or a transformative journey.

The magic of Varkala

In 2018, I went on a 10-day surf and yoga retreat to Varkala, India. I had just been diagnosed with severe burnout, and India seemed like the best place to take a break, recenter myself and reflect on my doctor's diagnosis.

During this trip, an Ayurvedic massage exposed―and partly relieved―hidden trauma stuck on the left side of my stomach. A heavy wipeout made me realise the physical pain was nearly not as bad as long-term mental pain. And the joy I felt in Varkala―one I hadn't felt in years― revealed the lifestyle I needed for my well-being: calm, peace, nature, surfing, and slow living.

This trip to Varkala compelled me to make one of the most critical decisions in my life: to quit my job, backpack for half a year in South America, and start doing things that matter to me.

So my connection with Varkala is profound, as it's the place that has helped me discover the type of environment I needed to cultivate―a striking contrast with the one I was living in Paris at the time. Waking up at 6 AM to learn how to surf, meeting the locals, eating delicious food, hearing the sound of birds and crashing waves down the Varkala cliff, staying in a lovely surf & yoga retreat facing the ocean, and doing yoga at sunset to wind down before dinner...All of these moments I cherished, you can live them too :)

“This trip to Varkala compelled me to make one of the most critical decisions in my life: to quit my job, backpack for half a year in South America, and start doing things that matter to me.”

Varkala no-fuss travel guide: surf, yoga and culture

Where’s Varkala in India?

Varkala is located in the southern state of Kerala, India. It's a small coastal town along the Arabian Sea, with a spectacular mix of Pacific and South Asian landscapes, pristine beaches and lush jungles.

What's so special about Varkala?

On top of stunning landscapes and uncrowded surf spots, Varkala has a rich historical and religious heritage. Multiple religions coexist, making the region a vibrant melting pot of culture and traditions. While Hinduism is the predominant religion in the area, there's also a significant Muslim population in Varkala and other minorities, such as Christians, Sikhs and Buddhists. The presence of Hindu temples, Christian churches and Muslim mosques reflects Varkala's religious harmony and tolerance. So if you're seeking to explore the spiritual heritage of the Kerala region, Varkala is a great place to start.

What's the weather like, and what's the best time to visit Varkala, Kerala?

A tropical climate generally characterises the weather in Varkala. Expect scorching hot temperatures in summer and sky-high humidity levels.

Here's an overview of the weather conditions:

1. Winter (December to February): This is the most pleasant time to visit Varkala, with mild temperatures ranging from 22°C to 32°C. The weather is relatively dry, and the cool sea breeze will help soothe the mid-day heat. Winter is the peak season with the most tourists.
   
   
2. Summer (March to May): Summers in Varkala can be hot and humid, with temperatures ranging from 28°C to 45°C. I went to Varkala during this time, in March. The heat was unbearable on some days, with temperatures going up to 45°C. There was a fan in the room, but when the electricity cut at night, I had to take a cold shower to refresh my body. Stay hydrated and seek shade during the peak daytime hours. The water is hot (around 30°C) in the summer season, so won't necessarily be refreshing, but I'd still spend hours every morning in the ocean to cool down from the hot night.
   
   
3. Monsoon (June to September): Varkala has a monsoon season with heavy rainfall.
   
   The southwest monsoon hits the region during these months, bringing significant precipitation. Expect frequent showers, lush greenery, and slightly cooler temperatures.
   
   
4. Post-Monsoon (October to November): Varkala experiences a transition period with sporadic rain showers after the monsoon season. The temperatures gradually become cooler and more pleasant, ranging from 24°C to 32°C. The vegetation is vibrant, and the tourist crowds are relatively thinner during this season.

How to dress in Varkala, Kerala?

When it comes to dressing in Varkala, it's essential to consider the local culture, climate and religious customs. Here’s some tips on how to dress appropriately in Varkala:

1. Respectful clothing: Kerala has a conservative cultural environment, so it's advisable to dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites. Both men and women should avoid wearing revealing or skimpy outfits. Opt for clothing that covers your shoulders, chest, and knees. Women should cover their chest and legs with a rash guard and surf leggings or shorts when surfing.
   
   
2. Lightweight and breathable fabrics: Due to the tropical climate, wear fabrics that allow air circulation and help you stay cool, such as linen and natural fibers.
   
   
3. Loose and comfortable attire: Loose-fitting clothing helps cope with the heat and humidity. Choose ample tops, pants or skirts that allow air to circulate around your body.

How to get to Varkala in Kerala?

1. By air: The nearest major airport to Varkala is Trivandrum International Airport, located approximately 37 km (23 miles) away. From the airport, you can take a taxi to reach Varkala. The journey usually takes around an hour. Get ready for crazy driving skills, with drivers manoeuvring around buses, tuk-tuks and cows!
   
   
2. By train: Varkala has its own railway station called Varkala Sivagiri Railway Station, which is well-connected to major cities in India. Several trains operate to and from Varkala, making it a convenient option for travellers. You can easily find auto-rickshaws or taxis from the railway station to reach your destination in Varkala.
   
   
3. By road: Varkala is well-connected, and you can reach the town by bus or taxi. Regular bus services operate from nearby cities and towns to Varkala. Private taxis or rental cars are also available for a more flexible and personalised journey.
   
   
4. By ferry: If you're travelling from other coastal areas in Kerala, you could take a ferry to Varkala. Ferry services operate from places like Kollam and Alleppey.
   
   💡 There were no ATMs in Varkala when I was there. If you fly in by plane, exchange cash at the airport and bring enough for your trip. Expect to pay around 6€ per meal, 15€ per massage, 1-2€ per 10-minute rickshaw ride and 10-20€ per activity/tour.

Best things to do in Varkala Beach

Varkala is the perfect place to surf, relax, practice yoga, indulge in mouthwatering local cuisine, and get a glimpse of India's rich culture and many wonders. For me, Varkala was a perfect (and soft) introduction to India, which made me want to explore the country further.

I went to Varkala to do yoga and surf, but was pleasanlty surprised by the abundance of activities. Here's a round-up of all the things to do and best places to visit in Varkala Beach and the surrounding areas:

1. Beach time! Varkala Beach has pristine sandy shores and stunning views of the Arabian Sea. You'll tan in seconds; put loads of sunscreen if you don't want to end up looking like a red seal melting on the beach.
   
   
2. Explore the Varkala Cliff: Adjacent to the beach, the Varkala Cliff is a picturesque stretch lined with shops, delicious restaurants and guesthouses. Take a walk along the cliff, spot Sikhs wearing their colourful turbans (or dastār), and enjoy the breathtaking views.
   
   
3. Eat some of the best curries in your life: I was amazed by the local cuisine, primarily vegetarian and rich in flavours and spices. Food is relatively cheap in Varkala, so go feast at one of the many local restaurants (but note that it’s way more expensive than the north of India, so don’t expect to pay less than 5€ for a meal). Also be sure not to miss the typical Keralan breakfast, Masala Dosa: a salty rice flour pancake with potatoes and coconut chutney.
   
   
4. Visit the Janardanaswamy Temple: Situated near the beach, the Janardanaswamy Temple is an important Hindu pilgrimage site. Enjoy the architecture and striking colours, and take in the peace of the site.
   
   
5. Take a dip in Papanasam Beach: Just a short distance from Varkala Beach, Papanasam Beach is a spiritual beach believed to wash away the deceased's sins and provide eternal salvation. Try to go right before sunset to spot a pūjā ceremony where they make offerings to the sea, and spread ashes from the cremation grounds.
   
   
6. Watch the sunset: Varkala Beach offers mesmerising sunset views over the Arabian Sea. The Soul & Surf hostel has a prime location, and doing yoga facing the setting sun was the best way to end the day.
   
   
7. Try Ayurvedic treatments: Kerala is renowned for its Ayurvedic practices. Pamper yourself with rejuvenating Ayurvedic massages, spa treatments and wellness therapies.
   
   
8. Take a scenic boat ride in the Kerala backwaters: Explore the backwaters of Varkala by taking a pirogue with a local fisherman. It was one of my favourite adventures in Varkala: for one hour, I felt entirely submerged by the birds, the stillness of the water, the fisherman’s serene gaze, and the green cloak of palm trees stretching from one horizon to the other.
   
   💡I didn’t go with the popular boat tours; these boats are motorised, and crammed with people. I went with a local guide who was navigating a tiny wooden canoe with a bamboo stick, and we were only two. We didn’t cross paths with other tourists. Maybe I got lucky, or the guide took me through a less frequented route.
   
   Remember to tip your guide at the end of the boat ride :)
   
   
   
   
9. Attend yoga classes: Varkala is a hub for yoga and wellness retreats. Join yoga classes or retreats offered by various centres along the cliff, and indulge in a rejuvenating and meditative experience.
   
   
10. Visit Anjengo Fort: Located near Varkala, Anjengo Fort is an ancient Portuguese and British colonial-era fort with breathtaking panoramic views of the surroundings.
    
    
11. Surf your mornings away: If you're looking for uncrowded waves in picture-perfect beaches, Varkala is the untouched paradise that embodies "The Search:" surfers’ endless pursuit of perfect, wild waves around the world.

Are the beaches dirty in Varkala, Kerala?

Yes. Sadly, garbage and plastic were omnipresent in every surf spot, and turned postcard-like landscapes into a sad reflection of the modern world, with plastic scattered across the golden sand. Do your part and pick up what you can, or participate in local beach cleanups.

Surfing Varkala, India: all you need to know

Best Surf Spots in Varkala

1. Varkala Cliff Point: Located near the main beach, Varkala Cliff Point offers consistent waves suitable for surfers of all levels. It's a popular spot for beginners and intermediate surfers to catch small to medium-sized waves.
   
   
2. Edava-Nadayara: This surf spot is a short distance north of Varkala Beach and is known for its long and uncrowded waves. It's suitable for experienced surfers looking for more challenging and advanced surfing conditions.

Ask surfers at Soul & Surf―they can take you to spots only locals know, which I won't reveal for the sake of the adventure.

When to Surf in Varkala

The surfing season in Varkala extends from November to March. During this time, the swells are more consistent and the winds blow offshore. The best month to surf is January.

I went in March, and the waves were perfect for beginners on most days. But the swell got powerful towards the end of my trip. I got a heavy wipeout that left me with three scars on my back!


Things to know:

1. Surfboard rental and lessons: If you're new to surfing or don't have your own equipment, there are surf schools and rental shops along the Varkala cliff where you can rent surfboards and take lessons from experienced instructors.
   
   
2. Tides and swells: Keep an eye on the swell conditions before heading out to surf. You can surf at all tides in Varkala.
   
   
3. Safety and local rules: Respect other surfers in the lineup, follow any instructions from local surfers or instructors, and be aware of any potential hazards like rocks or currents.
   
   
4. Surf community and events: Varkala has a vibrant surf community, and you might have the opportunity to meet and connect with fellow surfers. I'd recommend staying at Soul & Surf India. They work with local and international surf teachers and take you to the best spots in the region.

Budget-friendly hostels for solo travellers in Varkala

Varkala has been growing in popularity, and so have accommodation prices. Fortunately, there's still a couple of affordable hostels for solo travellers, highly rated on Bookings.com.

HostelExp Varkala ︎︎︎


From 8€ per night for a dorm bed.

Within 400 metres of Varkala Beach, and close to the town centre.


The Temple Tree Varkala ︎︎︎

From 7€ per night for a 2-person tent.

A bit further away from Varkala Beach but close to Odayam Beach, another beautiful sandy beach in Varkala.

My stay at the Soul & Surf retreat in Varkala

If you're looking for a peaceful retreat, slow days and dazzling sunsets, book your stay at Soul & Surf India. It has surf and yoga packages and different accommodation options to suit your needs.

💡 Soul & Surf can be expensive if you're not sharing a room with someone. But the price’s worth it.

A typical day at Soul & Surf India would be waking up at sunrise, drinking coffee and eating a fresh banana before heading off for a surf lesson or session, depending on your level. Come back at 10 AM and indulge in a delicious homemade breakfast outside. Then spend the day exploring the Varkala cliff, surfing some more, chilling in the Soul & Surf lush garden, or doing a nearby activity.

At sunset, around 5 PM, have a one-hour yoga class with a certified teacher to stretch your limbs and prepare for another early morning surf session. Then head to town for a local meal, or eat a freshly baked pizza from the oven.

Days go by and you wish they’d never end. Life is chill at Soul & Surf. Watch this video to taste the vibe:


Find Your Love from Soul&Surf on Vimeo.

What an ayurvedic massage taught me

Soul & Surf also has excellent massage therapists. In their own words:

"Our therapists are more than just masseurs. They work with minds and souls as much as they do with bodies."

I stand by that statement. When I booked an Ayurvedic massage, I expected nothing more than a relaxing one-hour session. But as her hands pressed against a specific point on the left side of my stomach, near my hip, an intense and piercing pain shot throughout my body. The pain escalated, building like a trapped gas bubble until it burst. Despite all my efforts, I couldn't hold back my tears. I cried as I had never cried before, unable to understand the reasons behind this unforeseen sadness. It was as if my tears were washing away the pain I had long forgotten, but my body had never let go of.

The masseur was extremely understanding and not judgemental. She explained that sometimes, the body would hold onto past trauma or painful memories that we've chosen to forget but never dealt with. As a result, the pain gets stuck somewhere inside of us, and can cause lingering symptoms. Until the body can't hold it anymore, or when someone triggers it simply by touching it. The pain bubble bursts and hurts on a profound level. It's an ache that permeates every inch of our being, coursing through our limbs, muscles, and veins, demanding our attention: it takes over entirely, forcing us to focus on it, showing us that we must confront it.

I couldn't pinpoint exactly what trauma this pain was related to―perhaps multiple experiences that my body had stored in my stomach. Figuring this out is still a work in progress. But after that massage, pieces started falling into places. The constant stomach pain and persistent digestive issues that had plagued me for years, immune to any medication, suddenly made sense. I became convinced they stemmed from this buried trauma or painful memory I had never truly faced.

As I returned to Paris, my heart shattered. Why was I so miserable, despite the fantastic three weeks I had just experienced in India?

Burnout doesn’t just disappear in a matter of days. It’s a long healing process that requires intense self-reflection, and the courage to face memories we wish had never happened. It compels us to challenge the intricate webs of thought that hinder our capacity to embrace life and obstruct our ability to thrive.

The body is a powerful messenger, urging us to change course when we're on the wrong life path. And in that moment, as I was on the brink of returning to an intensive job, a flat that suffocated me, and an annihilating routine, my body screamed at me: 'Stop. Take action. This is not the life you're destined to live.'

And so I changed my life path. It took a while―two years to be exact. But as I headed home, I started planning my backpacking trip to South America. Eleven months later, I was in Costa Rica, living the same lifestyle I had discovered in Varkala. And I still live that precious lifestyle today, as I'm writing to you from a tiny house in the woods in the Basque Country, next to some of the best surf spots in the world.

And for all that positive change, thank you, India.